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Results 1 to 16 of Thread: help me identify my mauser! Join Date Jan Posts 5. Reply With Quote. Spanish Model Sponsored Links Remove Advertisements. And it may have been rearsenaled later by the Spanish into a short rifle. Originally Posted by cenok is family. Bob In St. Also your rifle is sporterized and not original. The sporterizing was done by a firm associated with Interarms the importer in the late s, early s.

Your Mauser is a sporterized Spanish model short rifle. The hinged trigger guard is correct for most model short rifles.

The front sight blade might be a Lyman replacement, but the front sight base is original, and has the hole for the pin that holds the sight guard in place. It wouldn't hurt to double check the caliber, as these rifles can be found in both 7x57 or 7. Join Date Dec Posts 8, I am sorry to have started you off with a "moved" thread but, as pointed out, you have a sporterized military rifle so you may find more information here on the "Commercial and Military Sporting Arms Forum" that will help, you have received good information up until now. Am I correct in my assumption? The original sling rear attachments on the rifles was a vertical bar screwed in over a gouge cut in the left side of the stock.

I have seen a LOT of the arsenal-refurbed Spanish short rifles in both 7mm and. I have a couple of pics but don't see a way to attach them. Any ideas on how to trace this thing and figure out a value would be greatly appreciated! Yes sir.

Winchester Model 70

He also gave me an 8 mm with ivory inlays that I wouldn't part with so am considering letting this one go to buy something else I've been wanting. Mine doesn't have a 98 stamp. I think you're looking at the picture Kleist posted instead of the 4 I put up. Any idea what you're thinking on a price? May be ready to sell after I run it by the local gun shop to get a 2nd opinion this weekend. Clearly it is a model The 4 numbers on 3 parts indicates that the all were made together. Not put together from other parts. Nice gun. I have a Remington 7mm mauser make in Mexico it got made Im thinking about selling it i can't find any on line thank you.

G un V alues B oard. Register then its esy to post pictures.. Thanks for the help.

Let me know if I need more detailed pics of certain parts of the rifle That's where many people go wrong by shooting modern. There were also some guns manufactured new at this time in Oviedo from to the 's.

Mauser identification | GON Forum

It appears that you may have a commercially sporterized version of the rifle. That's why it looks so good. If I read your serial number right it says your gun was manufactured in Oviedo "sporterized" in That's way cool! Thanks again for the info.


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I will deffinitly be reading that tonight. I will check the number tonight and try to see what I can find.

I almost forgot, I still dont know whats wrong with the rifle about the safety. I thought it was the sear, but from the pics and all, it looks like everything is right.

When I push the bolt into the reciever, the fireing pin will go back, but I am about 10 to 20 thou short, and I cannot engage the safetly unless I pull back on the cocking piece which is a royal pain in the ass. I might order a new sear and cocking piece to see if its either, or both parts.

But they dont look worn at all, which is puzzling.

Some suggestions for a possible stock

The condition where you can't get the safety on a Mauser to engage is common and is caused by worn or mis-matched parts. What's happening is that the worn or mis-matched parts are allowing the cocking piece to sit too far forward. With the cocking piece forward, the safety is unable to enter the gap between the cocking piece and the bolt shroud. DO NOT attempt to stone or grind the safety or the cocking piece top where the safety contacts it and cams it back when the safety is applied. While this may work if the miss-fit is not too bad, these parts have a very thin glass-hard case hardened surface that if stoned is broken through.

Then the parts will wear very quickly and the safety will get extremely sticky, then so sticky it can't be applied at all. I'd first consider replacing the sear "box". This is the actual trigger assembly sear inside the receiver. Check it for bent or worn pins, which can caused miss-fit. The trouble is, all Mauser parts are used, surplus, and they too will have at least some wear and difference in tolerances. A different sear may also cause a miss-fit of parts, so sometimes you have to just keep ordering and trying parts until you get a proper fit. If the situation is bad enough, you may have to replace both the sear box and the cocking piece.

When the safety is working properly, when it's engaged the cocking piece is cammed to the rear slightly and off the sear. If the trigger is pulled with the safety engaged, nothing happens and the trigger resets. If the parts are worn, you may have a condition where the trigger will fail to reset, and the rifle may fire when the safety is switched off. Originally Posted By dfariswheel: The condition where you can't get the safety on a Mauser to engage is common and is caused by worn or mis-matched parts.

I have some clips that I just got, but I cannot figure out how to get the rounds off the clips and into the mag. And the number on the rifle is L, and the bolt is numbered L I agree, it would be pretty cool if it had a matching bolt. I do think it is really cool that it was "sporterized" at the factory, rather then some factory mass sporterizing them, or worse, bubba-fied. I tried doing that with the stripper clip. I get the first 3, sometimes 4 rounds in, but the last one doesnt pop off the clip.

Do I have to do it really fast and hard? It doesnt look like there is anything inside to "catch" the clip to prevent it from going into the internal magazine.

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Yes, loading with the stripper clips is done in a hard and fast motion. Try using your left thumb pressing down on the stack of bullets at about the point of the first knuckle. That's why they added the thumb cutout in the receiver to aid in getting that last bullet in the magazine. Don't worry, the stripper clip won't go down into the magazine, it's too wide. Keep practicing, you'll get it! Do you think it's possible that when they made the rifle, instead of building a bolt for it, they just took a already made an stamped bolt from a box and threw it in? That would explain the lower serial number on the bolt.

Do you think that would be possible? Stay Connected. Newsletter Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more. Contact Us Advertising. I'll take a few more pics of the sear tomorrow when I get home from work. Dutch 51, As to the no markings, I am not sure if it was not marked to begin with, or if they were sanded off when it was sporterized, so I cannot be sure if what you said was true.

Go to Mausercentral. It comes apart by screwing the back piece counter-clockwise. Inspect the firing pin to see if it's bent or broken. Also inspect the other internal parts while you're at it. Note, your specific problem seems to be quite common and it can all be reassembled wrong and that may be what's causing yours to not work right. Here's a link that explains the correct way to put it all back together and make it work. Hopefully, that's what's wrong with yours.

I will inspect all the parts tonight, clean it, and reasamble correctly. It looked like it was assembled correctly before, but I did not do it and there is a chance something was off. Again, thanks for all the help and all the info.